Pattern games help build confidence, giving the dog agency and helping them to regulate their arousal in a wide range of contexts.
Using pattern games as part of counterconditioning and desensitisation really helps to boost these training techniques. These games don’t involve giving the dog any cues, so we are not forcing them to look at us or do anything else – we are letting them watch traffic, take it in, learn that it’s safe, and at the same time have fun!
I use my own versions of Leslie McDevitt’s pattern games as part of counter conditioning – follow the guidance in this article: “Training Techniques: Collie Car Chasing” to find out where and when in relation to traffic, to carry out pattern games with your collies.
Look At That:
Goal: This game is WONDERFUL for a dog that is reactive or fearful towards traffic. Collies that react to traffic will naturally want to look at the vehicle, but as they do, we say their marker word. This starts to change their emotional reaction towards the trigger from it being something overwhelming to being a predictor of something really good. It also breaks the collie stare, meaning that they don’t fixate on the traffic. The longer collies fixate on a vehicle (known as the collie “eye”), the more likely they are to become over-aroused and react.
The game is predictable, it makes collies feel safe, and they have autonomy – we are not asking for them to do anything at all. We use the marker word, but that’s not a cue.
The game: This involves using a marker word – if you’re not sure what a marker word is, see this article: “What is a marker word?”
With this training, whenever our dogs see a vehicle, we use the marker word WHILE THE DOG IS STILL LOOKING AT THE VEHICLE, the dog should then look back at us for a treat, we give them the treat, the dog looks back at the vehicle, we immediately give the marker word while they are looking at the vehicle, and so on…
Keep going with this until the vehicle is out of sight.
The pattern is:
- Dog looks at vehicle – marker word – dog looks at us and gets treat
- Dog looks at vehicle – marker word – dog looks at us and gets treat
- And so on!
The following video shows me using this game to help Flo get used to the cat:
And this video shows one of my clients carrying out LAT training to help his collie to cope with traffic:
Note: in this video, when the motorcycle appears, the dog’s behaviour becomes more frantic: this is a sign that the owner should have moved further away, as his dog was less able to cope at this point.
Troubleshooting:
If your collie does not look back at you when you use their marker word:
- You are too close – move further away
- You may not have trained the marker word effectively – see this article: https://collieconsultant.co.uk/2025/03/06/what-is-a-marker-word/
- Your treats may not be tempting enough – try something different
123:
Goal: I frequently used 123 to help dogs move about in contexts in which they need to keep moving but may be anxious. So with car chasing, I would use it when I need to keep a dog’s focus on me while moving them further away from traffic with a loose lead, without them going into lunging mode. It’s a pattern, it’s predictable, safe, and they have autonomy. It also builds connections and strengthens bonds with the handler.
The game: This game simply involves counting as you step, and giving the dog a treat on the word “three”. So walk along, count 1, 2, 3 (ideally say 1, wait a second, say 2, wait a second, say 3 to give you an idea of timing), and give the dog a treat on 3
I like to roll a treat along the ground for the dog to chase for this, white cheese works best because it’s easy to see on concrete or grass.
The pattern is:
- Say 1, 2, 3, roll a treat for the dog to chase and eat
- Say 1, 2, 3, roll a treat for the dog to chase and eat
- And so on.
This video shows me carrying out this game with Flo as we move past barking dogs:
Up Down:
Goal: to lower arousal and do something very positive together. This game is wonderful for letting dogs look around in environments in which they may feel a little anxious or overwhelmed, so it is perfect to use if they start to get a little bored during desensitisation. They have a pattern that they know, it’s predictable and safe, and they have autonomy – no-one is telling them to do anything, and they can stop any time. It increases confidence and helps dogs self-regulate.
The game: Stand still with some treats readily available – in your hand or in a treat pouch. Let your dog know you have treats by calling them over and placing a treat on the floor. As soon as your dog looks up, place another treat on the floor, as soon as they look up, place another treat on the floor, and so on….
Don’t wait for eye contact – this can be difficult for some dogs – just orienting back towards you is fine.
The pattern is:
- Dog looks towards us, we put a treat on the floor
- Dog looks towards us, we put a treat on the floor
- And so on.
If they want to lie down, sit or stand that’s fine.
Here’s a video of me doing this training:
U-turn
Goal: to be able to move a dog away from a trigger quickly and easily without pulling on the lead (which can cause a spike in arousal and increase anxiety/reactivity). When dogs are reactive to traffic, it’s important to be able to move them away from vehicles quickly and without tightening the lead if possible. Tightening the lead causes a spike in arousal and can trigger a reaction.
Teach this at home in the garden, and once they can be turned away from something high value, start to train in gradually more distracting environments over weeks/months. Build up until the turn away becomes almost reflexive on cue without the dog even thinking about it. At this point you can start to use it as an emergency when needed.
The game: Have your dog on a lead and have some very high value treats in a treat pouch or pocket.
The following video walks you through the training:
Stage 1: Place an item (such as a cone or upturned flowerpot) on the ground that you are going to move around – this is just an item to move around – it has no importance in the task. Stand a few paces back, facing the item with your dog on a lead to start. If you walk your dog on the left, move forward past the item on your right hand side. If you walk with your dog on the right, walk forward with the item on your left hand side.
As you pass the item and get in front of it, say “this way” (or similar) and back away from your dog quickly, on the other side of the cone/flowerpot and give them treats when they get to you.
Repeat until your dog is happily anticipating the U-turn and comes back with you as soon as you back off.
Stage 2: place something mildly interesting on the ground a few paces in front of the object. Examples could be a less interesting toy, or an object from the environment, such as a feather or clump of sheep’s wool, a low value toy, anything your dog would likely sniff if they were on a walk. Place this several places in front of the plant pot.
Walk past the cone/flower pot as in stage 1, then use the cue “this way” and back away from your dog just before they reach the interesting item.
Stage 3: gradually increase the value of the item you are moving towards. Examples could include a more exciting toy, followed by an empty bowl, then a bowl with low level treats in, then a bowl with medium value food in.
NOTE: the treats you are using to reward the dog when you use the cue “this way” must be higher value than what is in the bowl.
Stage 4: take very high value treats on walks with you, and start to practise in more distracting environments. Initially on walks in quiet places, then in busier places. Once your dog reorients to you quickly without hesitation every time, you can start to use this when closer to triggers.
Ping Pong
This is the same as for Up Down except the treats are moving which can make it more appealing to collies.
The game: Stand still with some treats readily available – in your hand or in a treat pouch. Let your dog know you have treats by calling them over and placing a treat on the floor. As soon as your dog looks up, place a treat to your left hand side, as soon as they look up, place a treat to your right hand side. Once your dog has got the hang of this, start to gently toss a treat to your left, then to your right, so that they have to find the treat. This is great for collies as they love the movement of the treats.
The following video shows this game in action: