8 Ways in Which Pain and Illness Cause Behaviour Problems

How pain can cause behaviour problems

As a behaviourist seeing some of the worst behaviour cases, often those who have been to trainers first who have been unable to help, many of the collies I see are eventually diagnosed as being in pain.  When a dog’s behaviour is intense, inconsistent, or occurs without any external cause, we always need to consider whether pain or illness is causing or maintaining the behaviour.
Pain is not always the cause of problem behaviour, but it’s much more likely to be involved than most people realise.

Pain doesn’t have to be severe to change behaviour – even mild discomfort can change a dog’s movement, sleeping patterns, interactions with other social beings, as well as how a dog learns, and copes with everyday life. Owners often feel like their dog is being disobedient or stubborn, when in reality the dog is simply trying their best to cope with how they feel inside.
This article will help you understand the way in which pain can cause behaviour problems, what signs to look for, and what to do if you suspect they are in pain.

1. Dogs’ bodies have to work harder when they are unwell

Your dog’s body is constantly working to maintain homeostasis, which means keeping essential internal processes — like temperature, hydration and blood sugar — within a healthy, stable range. This takes a lot of quiet “background work” from the brain, hormones and organs. When your dog is well, they have plenty of spare capacity to stay calm, regulate their emotions, learn, rest and cope with everyday life. But when they’re in pain or unwell, much more of their energy is diverted into simply keeping their body balanced, leaving far less available for emotional regulation and behaviour.

Healthy dogs can usually cope with things like visitors, other dogs, sudden noises, car journeys and busy environments, but a dog whose system is under strain has less patience and tolerance, and finds these everyday events much harder. This can lead to barking, reactivity, clinginess, avoidance, irritability or difficulty settling. You may also see a regression in training, with dogs appearing to forget previously taught behaviours. This isn’t stubbornness — it’s a sign that the dog is struggling and has less capacity to cope.

2. Pain increases sound sensitivity

Evidence has shown that collies tend to be sound sensitive as a breed, struggling with sounds such as fireworks, thunder, motorcycles, rattly trailers, tapping noises, sirens or phone noises and so on.

Any unpleasant or scary noises can startle a dog or make them tense up, and this “jumping” or tensing can cause pain. The dog therefore learns over time that certain sounds cause pain. Once this association is made, collies can become extremely fearful or highly aroused when they experience these noises, causing sound phobias or jumping/biting at the item causing the sound.

Sound sensitivity in border collies

3. Pain makes dogs more sensitive to movement

If we are in pain, certain movements can hurt. So if we are experiencing hip pain for example, which collies as a breed are prone to, changing position or moving about can be painful. This tends to happen when there is nothing exciting happening, such as when snoozing on the sofa, or when being asked to go out for their last toilet trip of the day. When collies are excited or aroused during work or play, their adrenaline tends to over-ride their pain, drowning it out so that they don’t even feel it. It’s when things have died down that they feel it more.
This can cause behaviours such as:

  • grumbling when people next to them on the settee move
  • growling when approached by people when sleeping
  • growling when asked to get out of the car after a walk

4. Pain affects sleep and tired dogs behave differently

Dogs in pain often struggle to settle and sleep. If they have chronic (ongoing) pain, then they may struggle to settle. The pain is constantly there, gnawing away in the background, and with nothing else to distract them from it, it can feel worse.

Very energetic, “busy” dogs like collies quickly learn that keeping themselves active is a way to keep the pain at bay. They may panic when shut into a crate or room alone to settle, and constantly seek interaction from their owners. They may panic when left alone, and develop compulsive/repetitive behaviours such as:

  • shadow chasing
  • tail chasing or spinning
  • repetitive licking
  • fly snapping to ease the discomfort

5. Pain changes brain chemistry and affects emotion

Chronic pain increases cortisol, adrenaline and inflammation. This can cause increased anxiety, increased reactivity and decreases a dog’s ability to learn. Pain biologically changes a dog’s threshold for reaction.

6. Pain affects emotions

Pain is the body’s way of keeping a dog safe, so it makes them more alert to any potential threats. When a dog is experiencing chronic pain, cortisol, adrenaline and inflammation increase in the brain. This can lead to emotional changes such as:

  • More anxiety
  • Lower tolerance for touch
  • Reactivity around people, dogs or other triggers
  • Sensitivity to noise or movement
  • Clinginess or, alternatively, hiding away
  • Growling or snapping when approached
  • Guarding beds, sofas, or resting spaces
  • Seeming “grumpy”, “on edge”, or easily startled

how can pain cause behaviour problems in dogs

These aren’t signs of a “disobedient” or “nasty” dog — they’re signs of a dog trying to protect themselves because they don’t feel right.

7. Pain reduces social confidence

Dogs in pain may feel more vulnerable, learning to avoid or repel other dogs or people by using aggression if they feel that interactions could cause an increase in pain. This can be their owners and other household dogs as well as unfamiliar people and dogs. They may stick more closely to their caregivers for protection.

This is often mislabelled as “guarding”, “dominance”, or “anti-social behaviour”, when it’s actually self-preservation.

8. Illness – even non-painful illness – also changes behaviour

Even with illnesses that don’t cause pain, a dog’s body may have different priorities and this can still change behaviour.
Illness may cause:

  • Increased fatigue and therefore refusal to go for walks, or stopping on walks
  • Less desire to play
  • Less able to concentrate, including during training or when out and about
  • More or less desire to sleep
  • Changes in toileting habits
  • Increased neediness
  • Increased or decreased appetite
  • Reduced tolerance of handling

Digestion issues, hormonal changes, dehydration, infection, and inflammation may all affect a dog’s mood and coping ability — sometimes long before any obvious physical signs appear.

Border collies – more likely to experience pain and less likely to show it

Poor breeding has meant that collies are more prone to orthopaedic, neurologic and soft-tissue injuries. These include hip and elbow problems, Additionally, their drive for work and movement means that they are more likely to keep going even if they are injured or ill and feel pain. Their excitement and hormonal release while playing or working can override any pain they may feel, meaning that any injuries need to be severe before a collie will slow down or choose not to play, work or train. Injuries are frequent for collies working on hillsides amidst slippery rocks, streams and thick scrub – dogs that could work through their injuries were prized and bred from. A dog that stopped working in the middle of a fetch would not be much use to a shepherd.
Studies have shown that collies working in agility are more likely to be injured than other breeds, and it has been theorised that this is due to their enthusiasm, throwing themselves into their work without hesitation.

Counter-intuitively, collies tend to become more active when they are in pain, rather than less. But in the absence of the usual symptoms of discomfort in collies, we are more likely to see behavioural changes and must take notice of these, especially if they are new behaviours.

Young dogs can be affected too

People often don’t realise, but pain and illness are not limited to older dogs.
Research shows that a notable number of collies may experience joint, muscle, or gut discomfort from birth or while very young. These can contribute to:

  • Intense frustration
  • Hard grabbing or mouthing
  • Over-the-top reactions
  • Difficulty settling
  • Sensitivity to sound or movement
  • Anxiety around other dogs or people
  • Fear of novelty
  • Anxiety on walks

Border collie puppy in pain

Because these can occur at around adolescence, it is often difficult to identify whether the dog is struggling due to pain or discomfort, or experiencing hormonal changes while going through a “teenage phase”.

When should you speak to your vet?

Please contact your vet if your dog shows:

  • Changes in tolerance (touch, grooming, handling)
  • New or worsening noise sensitivity
  • Difficulty settling or changes in sleep
  • Changes in movement (slow to get up, hesitant on stairs)
  • Grumpiness, guarding, or reactivity
  • Repetitive behaviours (licking surfaces, chasing lights or shadows)
  • Reduced appetite or enthusiasm
  • Difficulty concentrating or unusual frustration in training

Any changes need investigating. For instance, when one of my collies suddenly started showing fearfulness around gunshots while out on a walk, which she never has before, I took her straight to the vet’s. They dismissed my concerns and said she was fine, but she didn’t improve. I eventually insisted on x-rays and she was diagnosed with hip dysplasia.

If your vet dismisses your concerns, find an ABTC-registered behaviourist to work with. We can help you gather evidence to convince your vet to investigate further.

References

 

 

Muzzle Training Collies

Muzzle movement muzzle

Muzzle Training Collies

This muzzle training guide is for dogs that already have an aversion to the muzzle as well as dogs that are completely new to muzzle training.  With dogs that are already very fearful of the muzzle, we start training with a cardboard cup, just to get them used to putting their nose inside something, then transition to the muzzle.  For dogs who are already really scared of the muzzle, start at sStep 1.

For dogs that are completely new to muzzle training, with no prior negative associations with waering a muzzle, start on Step 16.

In the steps below it’s important to move the item away from the dog’s nose rather than let him move his nose away - we don't want him to get into the habit of backing out of the muzzle.
Only train for a maximum of five minutes per session, and don’t try to move through all the stages in one session – you should only be working on one stage or at the most, 2 stages per training session.

In order to ensure that your dog is relaxed at every stage as we go through the muzzle training plan, see the following “ladder of aggression” diagram.

This shows how dogs communicate their anxiety right from just starting to be slightly anxious at the bottom of the ladder, through to actually biting at the top. So if, during any of the stages of muzzle training below, you see him lip licking, yawning or blinking, turning his head away, or any of the behaviours higher up on the ladder, stop training at that level and go back to the level before.

the ladder of aggression

What type of muzzle?

It's essential to use basket muzzles, which allow the dog room to sniff, pant and drink, as shown in the video below.  I usually recommend the muzzle movement muzzles.  They have plenty of room for dogs to pant, and they have a very handy hole in the end through which we can give dogs treats.

Muzzle movement muzzle

 

Muzzle Training Steps

Step 1:

Have the muzzle out and about in different places, but don’t pick it up next to your dog to start with.
Continue until your dog is no longer eyeing the muzzle or looking worried by it, then go on to step two.

Step 2:

Start to have the muzzle on your knee while sitting on the sofa or next to you when you’re doing things in the house and your dog is around.
Continue until your dog is no longer eyeing the muzzle or looking worried by it.

Step 3:

Very carefully pick up the muzzle while your dog is about, but not immediately next to you. Watch for any of the signs on the ladder of aggression, and don’t progress any further until you see no signs of anxiety and he appears to be relaxed,
Continue to practise this every day, along with steps 4-8, until you get to step 9.

Step 4:

Use cardboard coffee cup or parcel tape roll.  Hold a treat through the item so that the dog has to put his nose slightly in to get the treat. Don’t press on his nose – just let him put his nose in gently. Take the item off the dog’s nose as soon as he has eaten the treat. Don’t move your hand towards the dog – hold the item with the treat the other side of it and wait for the dog to put his nose in.
Once your dog is excited to see the item you have been using and willingly puts his nose in it for the treat every time it is presented, 10 times in a row, move on to stage 5.

Step 5:

Present the item in the same way as in step 4, but without holding a treat one side of it. If your dog puts his nose anywhere near the item, mark him using your marker word and treat.
As before, don’t move the item towards the dog or push it onto the dogs nose. Hold it still. Once the dog has put his nose in or near the item, say your marker word and move it away from his nose.
Once he is regularly putting his nose near or on the item, ten consecutive times in a row, move on to stage 6.

Step 6:

Present the item in the same way as in step 4, keeping treats in your treat bag or pot. If your dog puts his nose into the item, mark him (using your marker word) and then reach into your treat bag and treat.
As before, don’t move the item towards the dog or push it onto the dogs nose. Hold it still. Once the dog has put his nose in the item, mark and move it away from his nose.
Once he is regularly putting his nose in the item, ten consecutive times in a row, move on to stage 7.

Step 7:

Exactly the same as stage three, but try and wait for just a tiny bit longer once he puts his nose in the item before marking him then treating.
Once the dog is regularly holding his nose in the item for slightly longer 10 times in a row, move on to stage 8.

Step 8:

As above, but wait until the dog puts his nose in the item for 2 seconds before marking (saying your marker word). As always, move the item away before the dog moves his nose away.
Don’t push it onto the dog’s nose at any time. Once the dog is regularly holding his nose in the item for 2 seconds 10 times in a row, move on to stage 9.

Step 9:

As stage 8, but have the muzzle on the floor nearby while you do the training with him with the parcel tape/coffee cup. Continue to mark and treat when he puts his nose in the item for 2-3 seconds. Once your dog is not showing any anxiety and can complete the stage 5 training with the muzzle nearby, move on to stage 10.

Step 10:

As stage 8, but have the muzzle on your knee while you do the training with him with the parcel tape/coffee cup. Continue to mark and treat when he puts his nose in the item for 2-3 seconds. Once your dog is not showing any anxiety and can complete the stage 5 training with the muzzle nearby, move on to stage 11.

Step 11:

Start to use the muzzle instead of the coffee cup/parcel tape, but go right back to step 4. Have the muzzle on the floor next to you or on your knee. Pick the muzzle up, without lifting it or putting it anywhere near your dog. If he stays next to you without looking worried, immediately put the muzzle down again, then mark and treat him. Don’t put the muzzle anywhere near your dog at present.
Once your dog is relaxed with you lifting up the muzzle and stays next to you for his treat, move on to stage 12.

Step 12:

As stage 11 but just lift the muzzle a little bit more towards your dog. If he stays next to you without looking worried, immediately put the muzzle down again, then mark and treat him. Don’t put the muzzle anywhere near your dog at present. Once your dog is relaxed with you lifting up the muzzle and stays next to you for his treat, move on to stage 13.

Step 13:

As stage 12 but lift the muzzle up even more so that it’s closer to your dog’s head. At the same time, lift up your other hand and give him a treat. Don’t try to make him put his head near the muzzle for now. Once your dog is relaxed with you lifting up the muzzle and stays next to you for his treat, move on to stage 14.

Step 14:

Hold a treat so that your hand is inside the muzzle and hold the treat in the dog’s end of the muzzle so that the dog has to put his nose very close to the muzzle to get the treat. Don’t press the muzzle on to his nose or move it towards him – just let him put his nose near the muzzle gently. Take the item away from the dog’s nose as soon as he has eaten the treat. Don’t move your hand towards the dog – hold the item with the treat the other side of it and wait for the dog to put his nose in. Once your dog is happy to put his nose very close to the muzzle to take the treats ten times in a row, move on to stage 15.

Step 15:

Hold a treat so that your hand is inside the muzzle and hold the treat in the dog’s end of the muzzle so that the dog has to put his nose just inside the muzzle to get the treat. Don’t press the muzzle on to his nose or move it towards him – just let him put his nose in gently. Take the item off the dog’s nose as soon as he has eaten the treat. Don’t move your hand towards the dog – hold the item with the treat the other side of it and wait for the dog to put his nose in. Once your dog is happy to put his nose just inside the muzzle to take the treats ten times in a row, move on to stage 16.

Step 16:

Present the item in the same way but without holding a treat one side of it – keep the treats in your treat bag or pot. We’re waiting to see if your dog volunteers to put his nose next to the muzzle, sniffing for a treat. If he puts his nose anywhere near the muzzle, mark him using your marker word and treat. If he doesn’t, go back to stage 15 for a few more trials then try again.
As before, don’t move the muzzle towards the dog or push it onto the dog’s nose. Hold it still. Once the dog has put his nose in or near the muzzle, click and move it away from his nose.
Once your dog is happy to put his nose next to the muzzle without reaching for a treat ten times in a row, move on to stage 17.

Step 17:

Present the muzzle in the same way as in stage 16, keeping treats in your treat bag or pot. If your dog puts his nose into the muzzle, click and then reach into your treat bag and treat.
As before, don’t move the muzzle towards the dog or push it onto the dogs nose. Hold it still. Once the dog has put his nose in the muzzle, mark and move it away from his nose. Once your dog is happy to put his nose just inside the muzzle without reaching for a treat ten times in a row, move on to stage 18.

Step 18:

Exactly the same as stage 17, but try and wait for just a tiny bit longer once he puts his nose in the item before marking then treating. Once your dog is successful ten times in a row, move on to stage 19.

Step 19:

As above, but wait until the dog puts his nose in the item for 2 seconds before marking. As always, move the item away before the dog moves his nose away.
Don’t push it onto the dog’s nose at any time. Once your dog is successful ten times in a row, move on to stage 20.

Step 20:

Aim to have the dog put his nose into the muzzle for approximately one extra second every couple of days before clicking and treating.

Step 21:

Start to work on the click of the clip that will eventually go behind the dog’s head.
So have the dog sat next to you on the floor, take the muzzle and click the clip shut. As soon as it clicks, give the dog a treat. Repeat 20 times every few days. Once your dog is showing no signs of anxiety, move on to step 22.

Step 22:

Once your dog can hold his nose in the muzzle for 10 seconds, hold the straps behind his head while he has his nose in there. Once your dog is showing no signs of anxiety, move on to step 23.

Step 23:

Start to do up the straps, then immediately undo them again and give the dog a treat. If your dog panics or tries to back off, go back to step 22 for longer. Once your dog is showing no signs of anxiety, move on to step 24.

Step 24:

Do up the straps and feed the dog through the end of the muzzle for 3 treats then remove it. Once your dog is showing no signs of anxiety, move on to step 25.

Step 25:

Do up the straps and feed the dog through the end of the muzzle for 10 treats then remove it. Don’t ever remove the muzzle if the dog is pawing at it or rubbing his nose on the floor. Get his attention with a treat so that he stops doing this first, then undo it. If he paws at the muzzle, go back to step 24 for longer.

Step 26:

We’re now at the stage where we can start to keep the muzzle on the dog for longer. Put it on very briefly when he has something interesting to do, such as on a walk for a few seconds, then take it off again. Start to build up the time he has it on by using it on a walk or when you can give him treats. If at any points he starts panicking, wait until he is calm before taking it off and then go back a few steps and build up again.

 

If you need any help with any aspect of muzzle training by following this plan, please don't hesitate to get in touch.

Entire Male Dog Aggression – What Causes It & How Can I Help?

Entire male dog aggression

Understanding what’s going on

Entire (unneutered) male dog agression often occurs in collies and is characterised by tension, scuffles, or barking at other entire males — particularly during adolescence.
This can be worrying and often misunderstood. It’s easy to assume a dog is being “dominant” or “protective,” but in reality, the reasons are far more complex and emotional.

As a behaviourist who works extensively with Border Collies and other sensitive breeds, I see this pattern often: a bright, eager adolescent male who wants to do the right thing, but whose body and brain are flooded with hormones, making calm decision-making almost impossible.  I see it occasionally in my own border collie, Ozzy, now age 2 and a few months.

  1. Hormones amplify emotions

Testosterone itself doesn’t “cause” entire male dog aggression. What it does is turn up the volume on all emotions — excitement, frustration, irritation, and even fear.
During adolescence (roughly 9–24 months), an entire male’s hormonal balance changes dramatically. His brain becomes more reactive, his arousal levels rise, and his ability to control impulses temporarily dips.  And just like teenage humans, he starts to take more risks – and being aggressive to another dog is a risk – it could backfire and he may be injured.
When two entire males meet, both are more likely to posture or stiffen, and if neither looks away, a stand-off can easily escalate.

  1. It’s often about social insecurity, not dominance

Many entire males who appear “confident” are actually socially unsure. They may want to greet but feel tense about what will happen next.
This inner conflict — the urge to approach and the fear of what might follow — is called approach–avoidance conflict.
When adrenaline and testosterone mix, dogs feel unsure about how to react and so may lunge or bark to try to control the situation. In other words, they are communicating “I’m not sure what to do, so I’ll make you go away.”

Sensitive breeds like Border Collies can be particularly prone to this because they have been bred to work closely with their humans, and pay more attention to subtle body language than other breeds.

  1. The influence of nearby females in season

Entire male dog aggression in collies
The stance of a typical male collie who has seen a bitch

The scent of female dogs in season can carry for a long way.
Entire males pick up that pheromone signal and their brains respond automatically, in a way that they can’t control.  Their testosterone rises and their adrenaline surges so that they struggle to concentrate on anything else.
They are not intentionally shutting out everything else – they can’t help it.

If a male dog can’t reach the enticing lady, he can become extremely frustrated and restless. Another entire male nearby may then be viewed as competition, and normal tension between males increases.
Even after the females’ season has passed, a dog’s arousal can remain heightened for several weeks.

Ozzy, my two year old collie, has very occasional aggressive outbursts, and they have all been when one of the girls he lives with has been in season.

  1. Pain and frustration lower tolerance

Pain can be a major, often overlooked cause or contributor to this behaviour.
A dog who’s sore or uncomfortable has a lower threshold for coping. If another dog bumps them, or if they feel physically restricted, they may react more sharply.
In behaviour work, pain is one of the first things I think about in collies with severe behaviour problems, because unresolved discomfort can fuel both aggression towards people, other dogs or traffic, as well as repetitive behaviours such as spinning, shadow chasing, or fly snapping.

  1. When hormones, fear, and frustration combine

An entire male who’s socially insecure, physically uncomfortable, and exposed to hormonal scent cues is living with constant internal tension.
That tension can spill over as reactivity towards other dogs — especially other entire males.
Over time, the more often he practises this reaction, the faster it happens.

That’s why management is key: we want to prevent rehearsal of the behaviour while working on his emotional wellbeing.

  1. What helps

  • Distance and predictability: Keep space between him and other entire males for now. Calm, controlled walks matter more than exposure.  Try to go to places where all other dogs are on lead so that it is easy to manage interactions.  Stately homes, nature reserves or town centres are ideal.
  • Pain check: Always rule out discomfort — musculoskeletal, skin, or gut-related pain can all lower thresholds for aggression.
  • Harness and long line: Protect the neck and prevent self-rewarding lunges.
  • Focus on calm engagement: Pattern games will help dogs to learn to regulate their emotions and teach quiet connection.
  • Avoid high arousal play: Fast ball games or chase play increase adrenaline, making reactivity worse.
  • Keep a note: If his behaviour worsens every few months, there may be nearby females in season — mark these on a calendar so that you know why it might be occurring if you start to see a pattern.
  • Consider timing of neutering carefully: Castration can reduce aggressive behaviour if it is driven by a dog’s sexual hormones.  However, if an aspect of their behaviour is due to fear or anxiety, losing their testosterone may worsen fear-based. Always discuss with your behaviourist and vet before making your decision.  If you really want to do it, consider trying the 6-month hormonal implant first.  Then if his behaviour deteriorates, you know it won’t be permanent.
  1. Compassion and context

When we see an entire male reacting to another dog, we’re observing a biological and emotional outburst that is out of his control.  We need to understand the emotions underneath — fear, conflict, and discomfort — and help him through with patience and empathy – it’s a very stressful state for him.
If we can prevent him from practising the behaviour, and keep him a good distance away from other young entire males until adolescence passes, he should start to improve dramatically.

References 

  • Beaver, B. (2009). Canine Behavior: A Guide for Veterinarians. Saunders.
  • Case, L.P. (2020). The Dog: Its Behavior, Nutrition, and Health (3rd ed.). Wiley.
  • LeBreux, B. (2022). “Behavioural challenges during canine adolescence.” Journal of Veterinary Behavior, 51, 75–83.
  • McGreevy, P. & Boakes, R. (2011). Carrots and Sticks: Principles of Animal Training. Cambridge University Press.
  • Neilson, J. (2003). “Reproductive behaviour problems in male dogs.” Clinical Techniques in Small Animal Practice, 18(2), 62–68.
  • Ogata, N. (2016). “Neurobiology of canine aggression.” Veterinary Pathology, 53(1), 49–60.
  • Overall, K. (2013). Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats. Elsevier.
  • Rosado, B., et al. (2010). “Behavioural assessment of canine aggression influenced by gonadal status.” Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 123(3–4), 157–162.
  • Sherman, B.L. & Mills, D.S. (2008). “Canine aggression.” Veterinary Clinics of North America: Small Animal Practice, 38(5), 983–1003.

How do you find a good trainer or behaviourist?

Good trainer or behaviourist

 

good trainer or behaviourist?
Did you know that…. the dog training industry is unregulated and anyone can call themselves a dog trainer or a behaviourist? Even with no training, or just because they have done a 3-day course from a dodgy organisation that tells them they are now “qualified”.

When I decided to run a dog training business, I believed I knew a lot about training dogs. I had been training dogs, particularly collies, all my life, and I’m ashamed to admit that I thought I knew everything.

How wrong was I???

You don’t know what you don’t know!

And this is, unfortunately, the position that a lot of dog trainers are in. They have trained dogs, they have a few methods in their tool kit that “work” and they think that they are good trainers. But there is so much important information that they will be missing out on.

I’m now aware that I had so much more to learn, and still do. There is SO MUCH I didn’t know or understand that is VITAL to being able to work with dogs with problem behaviours and obtain long lasting positive results. And I’m still learning, attending webinars, courses and reading, constantly, every day.

So, how do you find out who has the qualifications AND the experience to be able to help you and your dog with their problem behaviours?

Start with the ABTC – the Animal Behaviour and Training Council. The ABTC is an organisation that sets and maintains standards of knowledge and practical skills needed to be an animal trainer or behaviourist and maintains the national Register of appropriately assessed practitioners”.

In order to be on this register, we are required to have taken ABTC-approved courses, and demonstrate that we have the required understanding of both theory and experience in order to work as a behaviourist or trainer. The assessments are rigorous, and important because we need to be able to demonstrate these skills in order to work successfully with dogs and their caregivers. You can find a full list of their registered trainers and behaviourists in their practitioner directory.

Just because a dog trainer isn’t on the ABTC list doesn’t mean they aren’t good trainers, they may just have decided not to apply for assessment.  However, you won’t know for definite.

Most behaviourists who are properly qualified, however, WILL be working towards ABTC registration, so if they are not on the list, or do not have qualifications from, or be working with, any of the practitioner organisations (see below), they may not be the best person to help you and your dog.

 

How do I know what dog trainer qualifications mean?

Some trainers list courses and qualifications on their websites but the quality of these organisations varies. So how do you know what these qualifications mean? Luckily, the ABTC also lists practitioner organisations that give their students the knowledge and experience they need to become be able to apply to be a practitioner on the APBC register. You can find these organisations on their list of practitioner organisations.
An organisation that is not on this list may be very adequate, but you won’t know for definite.

Sticking to the APBC will give you confidence and clarity when looking for a trainer or a behaviourist.

 

Trainer or behaviourist?

Very simply, a trainer will help to train dogs to perform, or not perform, certain behaviours such as loose lead walking, recall, stay etc, and well as how to behave nicely around people and other dogs and become a good citizen and family member.

A behaviourist can help when the dog has severe problem behaviours such as:

  • Aggression
  • Separation anxiety
  • Abnormal repetitive behaviours
  • Fears and phobias
  • Destructive behaviour in the home
  • Hyperactivity – inability to settle

Think in terms of children in a classroom.

Teachers are the same as trainers – they can teach the children the information they need to learn, and can use good practises to ensure that they learn quickly and successfully.

But when a child in their class plays up, and shows signs of problem behaviour, then the teacher may call in a psychologist or a special educational needs specialist to help that child. This is similar to how dog behaviourists help with dogs with problem behaviours. The only difference is that most behaviourists are also trainers, so essentially teachers and psychologists. You can read more about the different types of ABTC-registered practitioners here.

Visitor Protocol for Anxious Collies

anxious collies

If your border collie is anxious about unfamiliar people, and barks and lunges when she meets them, the first step will be to try to limit how often she practises the barking and lunging. This is because:

the more a dog practises a behaviour, the more they will continue to practise the behaviour.

So helping your dog to cope when you have visitors is a really important stage of the training for dogs that are fearful of strangers.

anxious collies
 

Why are human visitors such an issue for anxious collies?

Humans visiting their home can be extremely distressing for dogs that are anxious and fearful of unfamiliar people. Their home is their safe space, and when people visit, their safe space is suddenly not safe any more. This leads to aggressive barking, lunging and sometimes biting, in an attempt to look big and scary, to get the intruder to leave.

The problem is that this behaviour is reinforced every day when the postman or delivery drivers arrive at the home:

the postman or delivery people arrive, the dog barks and lunges at the door, and the delivery people leave. The dog believes that they have successfully scared them away.

So when visitors enter the house and don’t leave, the dog feels out of control and panicked.

As well as fear and anxiety, some collies also feel a sense of frustration caused by someone entering “their” territory, which can lead to a mix of different emotions that they find very difficult to manage.  We therefore need to help anxious dogs to cope better with people entering their home, so that they don’t need to bark and lunge.

anxious collie
 

Features of the protocol that help

The following protocol is extremely successful in helping anxious collies feel happier about visitors coming into their home.  The protocol features the following:

  • Removing triggers for barking such as the doorbell or knocks at the door is a great start, eliminating the high arousal spikes caused by these sounds.
  • Meeting the visitors outside in a neutral open space can be very helpful, giving the dog time and space to learn about the person before they invade their home.
  • Ensuring that visitors don’t inadvertently threaten the dog by looking at them or attempting to touch them.
  • Understanding that people entering the house is the most difficult part of having visitors for the dog, followed closely by when they stand up to leave. When people are on their feet they are less predictable so can move in any direction. Standing people make dogs nervous. Sitting people are less of a threat.

The protocol is extremely successful in reducing unwanted behaviour with visitors – read the full protocol below.

 

My Visitor Protocol For Anxious Collies

Free work for anxious collies

 

Goal

For your dog to cope with visitors without any barking, lunging or other aggressive behaviour. This is because the more a dog practises and behaviour, the more they will continue to practise a behaviour, and we want to teach your dog new ways of coping with visitors, and eventually learn that they are not a threat.
 

Preparation

  • Ensure that your dog is used to free work – set it up in the garden a few times prior to having any visitors. This video explains more about free work.
  • If you don’t have the space for free work (not much space is needed), then prepare a forage box – see this video for how to prepare a forage box.
  • Ensure that she knows what a marker word is – see attached guide for marker words.
  • If your visitor is a family member or a friend who will be visiting frequently, it would be helpful for them to bring an item of clothing that the dog can sniff so that they don’t have to come too close to the visitor to get information.

 

Visitor guide:

Prepare your visitors in advance to do the following:

  • Behave as though your dog isn’t there at all – completely ignore her.
  • This means no staring at your dog, no interacting, no treat feeding
  • Even if she comes over and asks for fuss, don’t look at her or interact.
  • Try not to scare her by making sudden loud noises or wide arm movements.
  • Ideally create a visitor guide to give to visitors

 

Upon arrival

  • In advance of the guest arriving, set up free work in the garden or the room in which the visitors will be.
  • Ask visitors to let you know when they arrive by text or phone call – ringing the bell or knocking on the door instantly increases arousal, which we want to keep low.
  • Ask visitors to wander up and down the street outside your house and not look at your dog or speak to you until you speak to them.
  • Keep your dog a few metres behind for 2- 5 minutes, giving her a chance to air scent the visitors.
  • If she wants to stop and sniff, let her – sniffing lowers arousal.
  • Gradually catch up to the visitors, giving your dog space from the visitor if possible, but walking parallel to them.
  • Remind them not to look at your dog and only talk quietly and calmly.
  • If your dog barks, drop back a bit and allow the visitor to walk ahead then catch up gradually again.
  • After 5 minutes (ish), head back to the house.
  • Ask the visitor for an item of their clothing or from their car, if possible, to add in to the free work set up – this is particularly useful if the visitor is someone that may be visiting frequently.
  • Visitors go in first and get settled by sitting down. Sitting at a table can be good if your dog feels threatened by eye contact.
  • Bring your dog in on a long line, you could do the 123 game as you bring her in (https://youtu.be/R1_AApqwNIM?si=17Ce9TCGwTA9cJtI)
  • Encourage her to sniff the free work set up
  • Her handler can sit down as well and try to keep the lead loose and relaxed.
  • Ignore any barking
  • Once she is settled, every time she looks at, or interacts with the visitors in any way, use her marker word and toss her a treat.
  • Do NOT ask visitors to feed her – this causes conflict – she wants the treat but is suddenly closer than she wants to be and this can cause panic and aggression.
  • Take your dog into another room BEFORE visitors stand up to leave. Ideally somewhere where she can’t hear or get worked up.

For more information about how to help anxious collies, please don’t hesitate to get in touch.

Vet Checks For Your Collie – Help Your Vet!

vet checks for your collie

Vet checks for your collie! Very often in online articles or in social media groups, we are advised to get our dog “vet checked”. But often, we aren’t sure what might be wrong. Our dog might seem physically fine, but be behaving in a way that indicates they could be experiencing discomfort, so it’s difficult for vets to know where to start in the short ten minute appointment that they have with our dogs. This is often why they may often say that they seem fine and refer you on to a behaviourist, knowing that we have longer to work with the dog and pinpoint areas that may be an issue.

So when you first take them, it’s important to help out the vet as much as possible. In their short time with you they need to ask you what’s been happening and examine your dog. This isn’t long enough when you’re not sure what might be wrong, or if your dog can’t be examined, and it’s difficult for them to know how to help.

 

Help your vet out

When I’m working with dogs that I suspect may be feeling discomfort, but with no obvious physical symptoms, I help vets out by gathering as much information as possible. And you can do this too.
 
 

Suspected gastrointestinal issues

So for example, if you’re worried that they have gastrointestinal issues, you can do the following:

  • Keep a diary for at least a couple of weeks – note down each day when they eat, and note times they are more unsettled, or more likely to practise problem behaviours such as unwanted chewing, licking furniture, digging in the house, excessive rolling on their back or more biting and mouthing.
  • Use a poo chart – the attached Bristol poo chart is really useful to note down the type of poo you are seeing each time they go to the toilet. You could also take photos of any very unusual poo and add them to the diary. Ideally dog poos shouldn’t leave a residue when picked up, so anything that is softer isn’t ideal.

  • Vomiting, passing wind or burping – note these in the diary as well. And also note if they go into the “downward dog” position a lot as they can do this while they’re experiencing tummy pain.
  • Anything else – also note anything else that could have influenced their tummy such as excessive treats one day, stealing a chicken or eating something dodgy on a walk!! And note any supplements you might have been trying.
  • Try to keep it brief – the vet will only have ten minutes with you so summarise as much as possible. Use bullet points. No long bits of text.

 
 

Suspected musculoskeletal issues

In the same way, we can gather evidence is we suspect there may be something wrong with our dogs joints or soft tissues, even if there is no obvious limping.

  • Again, keep a diary, noting any strange gaits, limping, hopping or skipping. “Bunny hopping”, where a dog moves both back legs together instead of one at a time can be a sign of back end issues such as hips or luxating patella, where the knee cap slips out of place. Hopping is another sign and we often see this when dogs go up and down steps.
    Also note when dogs are walked and how far, and note if any behaviours are worse after walk, including the day after.
  • Gait video for analysis – this video explains how to take a gait video for analysis and will help your vet to clearly see any issues with how your dog is moving.
  • Free work video – free work is an amazing activity for dogs that is help in SO MANY contexts, but as a diagnostic tool, it’s amazing. It involves your dog moving freely and interacting with different objects, at different heights, and on different floor textures. We can see how your dog moves each leg, how they move their body and head, whether they are more likely to engage with items at a high level than a lower level, the list goes on. This free work video explains more about how to set up and film free work.
Free work for dogs
A typical free work set up
  • “Mooching” videos – footage of your dog just mooching in the garden or on a walk are also very helpful. Just like with free work, they are moving freely, of their own choice, and we can see how they choose to use their bodies as they move in a familiar environment.
  • Videos of your dog toileting – it sounds unpleasant videoing dogs toileting but it’s incredibly useful for behaviourists and vets. Toileting puts strain on the dog’s back end, so we often see dogs in pain moving about more while toileting instead of staying in one place. We may see them lifting a leg while pooing, or see bitches lifting a leg while weeing. We may see dogs hopping before or after lifting a leg, or notice lip licking, stretching, yawning, rolling or shaking off after toileting which can indicate discomfort. We sometimes see dogs turning and nibbling their back after toileting which can indicate something is painful or irritating. This is why we need to see several seconds before and after toileting, not just the act itself.
  • Other videos – other helpful videos include going up and down steps, and moving from one position to another, both when the dog has just woken up (so may be less supple) as well as when they have been moving.

 

Other behaviours indicating pain or discomfort

Note any other behaviours that might indicate pain or discomfort – any of the following need highlighting to the vet:

  • Being reluctant to get up once settled in the evening
  • Being aggressive when asked to move when settled
  • Not wanting to jump onto things or go up stairs
  • Not wanting to walk across slippery flooring – often a sign of spinal issues
  • Reluctance to get into the car – both because jumping in can be painful but also because travelling can cause discomfort
  • Stopping on walks – with collies who are so active, this is almost always a sign of pain
  • Sound sensitivity – this research by Lopes et al (2018) has shown that sound sensitivity and pain are often linked in dogs.
  • Any type of reactivity – with familiar people, unfamiliar people, dogs or traffic can be a sign that the dog is struggling
  • Sudden turning to nibble any part of the body while engaged in an activity or while settled
  • Repetitive licking of body parts or surfaces

Border collie repetitively licking body parts

  • Any abnormal repetitive behaviour – shadow chasing, spinning, fly snapping
  • Showing aggression or avoidance when handled – putting on a harness, being groomed, towel dried or excessive fear of vets
  • Inability to settle and sleep in the house during the day
  • Moving position a lot and being unsettled and waking up owners overnight
  • Unpredictable behaviour from the dog – sometimes they are fine, but other times they behave differently for no obvious reason

Basically any time the dog’s behaviour does not make behavioural sense can cause us to be suspicious of pain or discomfort. Individually these behaviours don’t mean your dog is in pain, but when you are seeing several, it’s worth noting them and letting your vet know. A brief bullet point list is all that is needed, and having brief videos of these can also be helpful.
 

Finally

I am advising you to give a lot of information to the vet here, and they may not have time to review it all during their time with you. But at least they know that you have it, and it’s there if they need it. The fact that you have taken the time to prepare the evidence will help them to understand that you are concerned, and they are more likely to take your suspicions seriously and look into things you are worried about.

In my experience, when owners are worried about something gastrointestinal or musculoskeletal issues, they are rarely wrong, so trust your gut and see the vet – but present information that will make their job easier!

Border collie reactivity – could it be pain?

border collie reactivity

Border collie reactivity

Border collie reactivity – barking, lunging, snarling, and snapping – is a very common problem with collies. It’s stressful taking them out for walks when they are so noisy and embarrassing, it can be scary and painful attempting to restrain them, and they often restrict our social lives as it’s not easy to have visitors or talk to people when out and about. It’s difficult, upsetting and can be really distressing for our dogs and for us.

However, there is often more to this behaviour than we initially realise, and after practising as a border collie specialist behaviourist for many years now, I have seen first-hand how underlying pain or discomfort is frequently underlying the reactive behaviour, EVEN IF THE DOG IS RUNNING, PLAYING AND JUMPING NORMALLY.

Border collies are natural people pleasers – they want to be in their owners’ good books and hate being wrong. If their owners are experiencing aggressive behaviour with their collies, even extremely intense reactivity, then in most cases it is out of their collie’s control. Usually their arousal is so high while they are reacting, that they can’t even hear their owners, let alone respond to any cues for different behaviour. I have never met a reactive collie who has been simply “stubborn” or “naughty” – there is always an emotional cause of the behaviour and more often than not, they could be in pain.

 

So how does pain or discomfort cause border collie reactivity?

There are several ways in which pain can affect dog behaviour and cause reactivity:

  1. Physical pain caused by triggers

    Dogs that have discomfort may find handling painful, so they may growl and snap to keep people away and prevent painful touch or movement. Or they may have been knocked while playing with other dogs, causing intense pain (Lopes Fagundes et. al., 2018). They may therefore use aggression to keep people or dogs away.
    Similarly, the very intense barking, lunging, spinning and attempts to nip traffic that characterises some collies’ fear of vehicles could cause pain and discomfort that the dogs start to associate with vehicles, increasing the anxiety and distress when encountering traffic.

  2. Startle or tensing up in relation to a trigger

    When dogs see something they are anxious about, it may make them jump, or they may tense up, and this tensing can cause an increase in pain. The dogs then associate this pain with the thing they were worried about. This means that now they are worried about the thing but are also fearful of pain. They bark, lunge and try to bite in an attempt to look big and scary to make the thing go away. (Mills et. al., 2018)

  3. Anxiety in relation to pain

    Animals that are in pain may be anxious about avoiding exacerbating pain. They may also become more frustrated if they realise that their options to do this are limited. For instance, a dog may become aggressive when asked to move from a resting position because they anticipate that moving will be painful. (Mills et. al., 2018).

  4. Pain as a stressor

    Pain acts as a stressor which can lower the dog’s threshold for reaction. Having pain continually makes us less able to tolerate everyday issues, and we are more likely to snap and struggle to cope. Dogs are just the same. (Walsh, 2025).

 

When aggression does not make behavioural sense

As behaviourists, we know how to look for the emotions and motivations behind behaviour problems, and if the behaviour doesn’t make behavioural sense, then we start to consider whether pain or discomfort could be a cause.

Owners often think that their reactive dogs are being deliberately stubborn or are ignoring them on purpose, but this is rarely the case. They are just in panic mode and unable to listen.

Studies looking at causes of behaviour problems in the dog population in general in the UK have found that as many as 85% of cases may be caused or exacerbated by pain or discomfort (Mills et. al., 2020). With collies, due to their biddable nature, high intelligence and drive to please their owners, I suspect that this is higher. Anecdotally, I have found that if a reactive collie is also sensitive to handling, and is sound sensitive, then I am definitely looking out for signs of medical issues.  Most of the collies I have seen that are reactive to dogs, people or traffic, and are also sound sensitive and fearful of being handled have eventually been diagnosed with some sort of pain or discomfort, so the three issues together are a definite red flag.

Sometimes pain may be the only factor causing the behaviour, and resolving the pain will resolve the behaviour. But more frequently, it may be one of numerous factors that led to the problem behaviour developing in the first place, and is also influential in maintaining the issue over the long term.

Mentioning the possibility of pain or discomfort to owners who come to see me for help with border collie reactivity is difficult, as their dogs often show virtually no physical signs of pain. They run, jump, play fetch, herd sheep, and chase things with no hesitation, and it seems unthinkable that they could be feeling discomfort. I understand this, and I’ve been there in the past – I feel awful when I think back to one of my collies, Blue, who had many signs of pain, that I ignored because he rarely limped or showed any other physical signs.

So to illustrate the point that pain can often be present in reactive border collie, here are a few of the cases that I have seen in the last year in which pain or discomfort was present, contributing to the behaviour problems the dog was displaying.

 

Theo – 1 year old, entire, border collie

border collie reactivity - TheoReactive to people, dogs and traffic, and sound sensitive

The problem behaviour

Theo’s owner came to me for help with Theo’s extreme reactivity to people, traffic and other dogs. He would lunge and bark at everyone that didn’t live in the home with the immediate family, and often attempt to nip, however many times he had met them. He was the same with unfamiliar people out on walks, and with everyone at the vet practice. He was terrified of traffic and would bark, lunge and snarl at other dogs, and would often redirect aggressively onto his handler.

Unfortunately Theo lived in Basildon on a busy street, opposite a shop and a school so taking him out for walks became so traumatic for Theo and his owners that eventually it was better for everyone, Theo included, that he didn’t have to experience that stress each day. There were no quiet areas within driving distance.

Theo had been to a residential training centre who had worked with him for 3 weeks, but was only slightly improved when he returned home. The training plan developed for him by the centre was good, and as far as we know there was no negative treatment.

Theo had been bought from a breeder on Pets 4 Homes at 12 weeks and hadn’t had any socialisation, meaning that he was terrified of everything. But that alone wasn’t an explanation for his extremely reactive behaviour.

Diagnosis

I immediately suspected that pain or discomfort could be involved in Theo’s behaviour despite there being no obvious physical symptoms, because his anxiety and aggression was so extreme. The vet was unable to examine him, but did not initially suspect pain or discomfort.

Because Theo is so reactive with people, a hands-on examination was not possible. We therefore contacted a Dynamic Dog practitioner, who works with the owner by asking for and examining videos of the dog carrying out different movements and activities. They put a report together to send Theo’s vet, highlighting areas of concern, and exploring potential medical investigations that could be helpful.

Outcome

Theo underwent x-rays and was diagnosed with bilateral hip dysplasia, worse on one side, and bilateral (both sides) cruciate disease, where the cranial cruciate ligament ruptures or degenerates causing pain in the hind legs.

Theo x-ray

He required tibial plateau levelling osteotomy (TPLO), where the angle of the top of the shin bone is changed by cutting and rotating the bone and stabilising it in a new position with a plate and screws. They would start with one side and then may do the other.

This intense pain would have made Theo fearful of interacting with anyone he didn’t know well in case he was knocked or handled in a way that caused pain. Additionally, each time he experienced a trigger that made him anxious, such as people, dogs and traffic, his anxiety would cause him to tense up, causing pain, which he would then associate with the trigger, creating a vicious circle of fear and pain.

Furthermore, when a dog is experiencing pain, they already have a lower threshold for reaction than dogs that are not experiencing any discomfort. We know how much more likely we are to be snappy with others when we have a headache, and are less able to take in what people are saying to us.

All of these factors can add up to the range of problem behaviours that Theo was experiencing.

When I last heard from Theo’s owner she was saving up for the operations required, which were going to be expensive and require weeks of recovery. But at least Theo would be getting the treatment he needed.

 

Shrike – 8 month old entire border collie cross greyhound/deerhound.

Shrike - reactive border collie crossAggression towards familiar and unfamiliar people, resource guarding of food and resting spaces

Behaviour problems: Shrike was only 7 months old when I first started working with him. His owners were having issues with seemingly unpredictable aggression towards them in relation to his food, his bed, whenever he was resting on the sofa, and in the car on the back seat where he travelled. He would often show no aggression at all and be very loving, but unpredictably snap at other times.

He was also unpredictable with unfamiliar people, sometimes welcoming strokes and fuss but at other times snapping, causing bruising or bleeding.

Whenever dogs are aggressive towards their owners the alarm bells ring for some sort of pain, and the same when they guard resting spaces. And again, when the behaviour is unpredictable, it can also be a red flag for medical issues. Shrike’s owners were very good with him – they were kind and positive, set boundaries well, and were consistent and predictable – there was no behavioural reason for him to be aggressive towards them. Resource guarding of food can often be caused by gastro-intestinal discomfort, and Shrike suffered from regular diarrhoea and soft stools. So the vet carried out parasite tests, and when these came back clear, we spoke to a dog nutrition specialist. Shrike was quickly settled on a single novel protein diet, and his gut issues seemed to resolve.

However, his aggressive outbursts didn’t improve, and his owners had noted some “bunny hopping” while Shrike was running, and hopping on steps, so he was x-rayed which also came back clear. After this, the vet was unconvinced that further investigations would be helpful, and due to this, the owners had doubts about discomfort being the cause of the issues.

Diagnosis

Eventually when Shrike wasn’t making improvements with the behaviour plan alone, we asked for a referral to the Nupsala Musculoskeletal Clinic at Melton Mowbray for gait analysis and physical examination. They noted that despite a normal clinical examination of his right hind limb, and no visual gait abnormality, he was consistently offloading weight from this limb.

Shrike reactive border collie cross
Report received from Nupsala Musculoskeletal Clinic after moving on the treadmill

He also reacted strongly, once with vocalisation, to direct pressure over the lumbosacral region (lower back where the spine meets the pelvis). The conclusion was that he was experiencing significant pain in this region, which would have been causing his anxiety and aggression when touched in certain contexts, and his dislike of being approached or moved when settled on a couch or in his bed. It was his way of asking people to move away and leave him alone as a way of preventing pain.

Outcome

The first suggested course of treatment was an epidural injection of long acting pain relief (6-12 months) under anaesthetic. The gait analysis would then be repeated after 4 weeks to see if there was any improvement. A course of steroids may also have been required. It may have been necessary to carry out a further MRI or CT scan to find out the exact cause of the pain.

When I last spoke to the owners, they were starting their journey of diagnosis and treatment with Shrike, hoping to resolve his pain issues. They had the skills to continue his training and behaviour plan, and if his pain was able to be controlled, there was every chance that Shrike would start to improve. Unfortunately, it had taken a long time to get to the diagnosis, so his behaviour had been practised for many months, making it more difficult to resolve without lengthy training.

 

Dave – male neutered 12 month old poodle cross collie

Extreme jumping and mouthing, inability to settle in the home, stealing items and guarding them, chewing household furniture, and extreme excitement when meeting people.

Problem behaviours

Dave was living in a flat in London and was just over a year old when I started working with him. Despite living in a flat with no garden, the owners were amazing at providing all his needs and giving him space and time to run around. The main issue was his jumping and mouthing which had started to become a big problem at around 8 months old, noticeably worse after he went with his owners on holiday to France. Holidays are more traumatic than we realise for dogs, so there may have been anxiety and trauma associated with his behaviour.

The jumping and biting was worse when leaving the house for a walk, when leaving the house without him, on walks and when in pubs or cafes, all times when he was frustrated. He’d been asked to leave daycare and a dog walker had refused to continue walking him after a guarding incident. His female carer had returned from walks many times in tears with bruised and bleeding legs.

Dave didn’t seem able to relax, he never settled and was always on the go, looking for things to chew or steal, or trying to bite and mouth his owners, who thought he was attention seeking.

These sorts of behaviours are very uncommon in collies or poodles of his age, and, with the behaviour really taking hold when he was 8 months old, I immediately started to wonder if pain or discomfort was a cause, as musculoskeletal issues can start to become an issue at this age. Dave showed no physical signs at all of any pain – there were no signs of gut issues, and no lameness or strange gaits. However, when we met up, he had a habit of hanging back behind his owners while walking, and showed some less obvious signs of anxiety and discomfort. Also, his biting and jumping was much worse when the caregivers tried to take him for the last walk of the night when he had been settled, another red flag for pain or discomfort.

Dave had been given the chemical castration implant at 6 months old, due to aggressive behaviour towards occasional other male dogs, which had reduced this behaviour. It could also have started to cause an increase in anxiety at 8 months old, so there were a lot of potential causes of his behaviour and it was a complicated case.

We put together a training and behaviour plan, and Dave’s behaviour improved, but there remained an element of biting and jumping, most notably last thing at night, and his chewing and stealing items improved, but not to the extent that I would expect.

Diagnosis

At about 14 months old, his caregivers made the decision to castrate him. While he was under anaesthetic we also asked the vet to x-ray him to check for any musculoskeletal issues. The x-rays showed mild hip dysplasia in one hip. Even though the issue was mild, pain is very personal and whilst an issue can cause no pain in one person or dog, it can cause a lot of pain in others, and his behaviour fitted with feeling hip pain.

Border collie reactivity - Dave, border collie cross poodle

Outcome

The owners were trialling pain medications when I last spoke to them, and were also trialling anxiety medication, with good results, and Dave’s behaviour continues to improve.

 

Molly, a female entire 1 year old border collie

Reactivity towards traffic, sound sensitivity and inability to settle.

Problem behaviours

Barking and lunging at traffic, including in the car while travelling, pulling on the lead, excessive barking in the home, at animals on the TV, household appliances (vacuum cleaner, mop, hairdryer, blender, gardening tools such as a shovel), cars driving past, inability to settle in new environments (she would pant and whine if the owners stopped to talk to someone on walks, and was impossible to take into pubs or cafes due to barking/whining).

I’m still working with Molly and she’s a wonderful little dog. We are working on her behaviour and training plan, and she is making a lot of improvement. However, she has suffered from many infections in her short life, from urinary tract infections, anal gland issues, eye infections and most recently tonsilitis. So a lowered immunity is on our list of differential causes of her behaviour problems, and we’re in close contact with Molly’s vet to determine if there is anything ongoing.

However, for the purposes of this article, it was her tonsilitis that highlighted just how much pain can affect behaviour.

Diagnosis

I’d been working with Molly’s owners for a few weeks when, between, our catch ups, Molly’s reactivity to noises, household appliances and triggers on the TV suddenly became much worse. Her caregivers immediately realised, due to our work together, that pain somewhere could be causing this escalation and took her to the vet. When they couldn’t find anything, they decided to sedate Molly to properly check her teeth to make sure there wasn’t a dental cause. While examining her teeth, they happened to notice that her throat was extremely sore and inflamed and that she had severe tonsilitis, which they never would have seen without sedating her.

Outcome

Molly was put on strong antibiotics, and her behaviour gradually returned to its previous levels – but this case is so important to highlight how sudden changes in behaviour can be caused by pain. And it also shows how easy it would have been to miss this – tonsilitis isn’t something vets routinely check for.

Work with Molly continues, and we are still working with Molly’s vet and considering further physical examinations to try to ascertain if there is ongoing pain and discomfort behind her behaviour. We suspect that there is – it’s just finding where.

 

Esther, female entire 6 year old border collie

border collie reactivity - EstherProblem behaviour: suddenly not wanting to walk in a certain location, apparent flinching near bird scarers (the gunshot type), not getting down from the car seat to the footwell when asked, obsession with water.

Esther isn’t reactive, but I wanted to include her in this article as a nice example of how very small subtle changes in behaviour can be clues to pain or discomfort. Esther is my lovely girl, my main sheep worker, and she has always had an obsession with water, wanting to chase the water coming from the hose incessantly, the more it is moved from side to side the better. These sorts of repetitive behaviours are often associated with pain or discomfort, but as she had no other symptoms or problem behaviours, I didn’t initially follow this up.

However, last summer, for the first time, I noticed her cringing at gun shots while on a walk. The next day she didn’t want to get out of the car in the same location. This set alarm bells ringing, as sound sensitivity is so often linked to pain (Lopes Fagundes et. al., 2018). When she didn’t want to walk the next day, I was even more concerned, and it was then that I realised that her refusal to get off the car seat and into the footwell was quite cramped awkward manoeuvre and that this could be due to pain as well. Esther wouldn’t ignore my requests for no reason.

Diagnosis

So I took her to the vet for a check up. They checked her over really well and didn’t find any cause for concern, but I was still worried. A few months later, I took her in for a dental and asked them to x-ray her while she was under anaesthetic. They felt her again and said she seemed fine, but I asked them to do it anyway.

Esther xray

They called later that day to say that she has mild hip dysplasia both sides, one side slightly worse than the other. I was upset, but at least we knew the cause of the behaviour. She is now on supplements all the time, and medication when she needs it (I judge this by her being less keen to go for a walk). We have rugs throughout the home, which has made a big difference – dogs in pain struggle to walk on slippery floors – it can make their pain worse, so having non-slip mats down really helps. For further information about helping dogs with musculoskeletal issues, the CAM (Canine Arthritis Management) website has some fantastic advice.

Outcome

She is now fine with bird scarers and happy to walk again. I never ask her to make any difficult or awkward movements, and she still has a full and happy life. Luckily her dysplasia isn’t too severe, and she had never shown any signs of pain or limping at all. It was only due to her subtle behaviour changes that I realised what was going on, and just shows how much pain and sound sensitivity are linked.

What next?

By the time pain is diagnosed, I have often been working with the owners for several months, because it can take this long to get to the bottom of things, and get vets and owners on board with the fact that their dog may be experiencing discomfort.

So having worked together for a few months, the owners already have the skills they need to continue working with their dogs. And now that pain has been diagnosed and hopefully treated, they usually make quicker progress than before. In 1983, BV Beaver found that the prognosis for aggression cases was very positive if pain could be treated, with successful treatment outcomes in all the cases in his study (Beaver, 1983).

However sometimes the behaviour problems have been ongoing for several years, and at high intensities, depending on when the owners get in touch. So with these dogs, behaviours may have become very entrenched and are therefore more difficult to resolve. There is often some anxiety also present, because dogs become anxious about anything that causes them pain – this may be sounds, traffic, other dogs, other people etc. This is a very strong learned association and can take a long time to resolve.

However, even with these more difficult cases, I find that once owners understand why their dogs have been behaving in the way that they have, they can better tolerate the behaviour, empathise, and start to protect their dogs rather than blame them. Simply understanding why their dogs had these issues is enough, and they are grateful for the help to resolve this.

 

References

Beaver, B. V. (1983). Prognosis of aggression when pain is identified as the cause. Veterinary Clinical Case Reviews, 3, 109-112.

Lopes Fagundes, A.L., Hewison, L., McPeake, K.J., Zulch, H. and Mills, D.S. (2018) Noise Sensitivities in Dogs: An Exploration of Signs in Dogs with and without Musculoskeletal Pain Using Qualitative Content Analysis. Frontiers in Veterinary Science, Volume 5 – 2018.

Mills DS, Demontigny-Bédard I, Gruen M, Klinck MP, McPeake KJ, Barcelos AM, Hewison L, Van Haevermaet H, Denenberg S, Hauser H, Koch C, Ballantyne K, Wilson C, Mathkari CV, Pounder J, Garcia E, Darder P, Fatjó J, Levine E. Pain and Problem Behavior in Cats and Dogs. Animals (Basel). 2020 Feb 18;10(2):318. doi: 10.3390/ani10020318. PMID: 32085528; PMCID: PMC7071134.

Walsh, S. (2025). Understanding the link between canine pain and problem behaviours. Veterinary Ireland Journal, Volume 14, Number 2, 75 – 81.

Why collie traffic chasing is (usually) NOT herding

Collie traffic chasing
collie traffic chasing

There’s a persistent myth in the dog world that collie traffic chasing is just “herding behaviour” or "controlling movement."

However, when you really look into the different experiences the collie has when meeting sheep and when they chase, nip or lunge in other contexts, we can start to see why many of the behaviours we label as “herding” are actually fear-based responses.

This is especially true when it comes to traffic chasing.
Just because Border Collies were bred to herd sheep, that doesn’t mean that every chase, snap or lunge is a calculated working move. It DOES mean that they are movement and sound sensitive, they often behave impulsively, and that they struggle in busy, loud environments.

So what is it that causes them to bark, lunge, chase, and attempt to nip at passing vehicles?

“Isn’t It Just Herding?” – Why That Assumption Is Misleading

Many owners really struggle with their car chasing collies. It's a serious behavioural problem that results in many collies ending up in rescue, and being returned again and again to rescue after rehoming.
When a Collie lunges at cars, it's often brushed off as “herding instinct.” But this label is so misleading. It implies purpose, control, and a positive mindset.

Let’s think critically:

  • Does the dog appear calm, thoughtful, and in control of their body?
  • Are they attempting to use eye and body pressure to move the vehicle somewhere?
  • Are they stopping and starting based on feedback from the “flock”?

Or are they stiff, frantic, lunging unpredictably, eyes wide, ears back, breathing shallow, strangling themselves on the lead, sometimes nipping?

I have yet to meet a car-chasing collie who is trying to herd traffic. They have all been scared, they have a history of trying to make themselves look big and daunting to make the scary thing go away, which has worked. They therefore have a highly reinforced habit grounded in fear and anxiety.

Understanding this distinction is vital—because if we assume they’re just herding, we’re likely to miss the fact that they’re actually distressed.

Herding Sheep vs. Encountering Traffic: A World Apart

Meeting sheep

Let's consider how most working collies are first introduced to sheep. It's in the countryside, the surroundings are quiet. There are no unfamiliar people, dogs or other scary things. The pups observe the sheep either from a distance or from behind a fence. The sheep are calm, quiet and move organically. Some may saunter over to investigate. They are not noisy, bright, splashy, or smell of fumes. They behave relatively predictably. The pup has plenty of room to move away if it wants to - and most do move away - as sheep are big and scary to a pup. There are a few sheep and then they are gone, and it's peaceful and quiet again.

Meeting traffic:

Compare this to most collies' first experience of traffic which occurs after their inoculations on their first walks at 13 weeks old. From their perspective, at ground level, these huge, very loud, strange-smelling, bulky mechanical monsters move towards them faster than anything else they may have encountered, with spinning wheels, potentially with lights shining, and loud splashing noises if it's raining. The ground may shake with larger vehicles. They are on a short lead, often on the restricted space of a path by the road. They have no concept of being safe on paths.

Collie car chasing

The loud scary monsters appear, one after another, again and again, repeatedly. It's an absolute affront to the collies' senses. Similarly frightening is when vehicles suddenly appear on quiet roads (often without a path at all), loud, looming and overpowering, and then are gone. The poor dogs have no idea what just happened.

Even as collies start to become more familiar with traffic, individual encounters with exceptionally fast, loud or big vehicles, such as motorbikes, buses with airbrakes or rattly trailers can trigger a startle response and potential phobia. They are terrified and it's usually these early experiences that trigger traffic chasing.

These two scenarios couldn't be more different.

To put things in perspective, putting a young dog into a small pen of sheep, which is still relatively less stressful than walking by a busy road, would put many collies off sheep for life. Shepherds would avoid this until their collies are older and more confident with sheep. And it's a technique often used by trainers who claim to STOP dogs chasing sheep.

To Summarise

Meeting Sheep

🐑Usually in quiet, rural areas
🐑 Sheep move away from the dog
🐑 Open areas for the dog to escape
🐑 Calm, ambient sound environment
🐑 Scent of grass, soil, livestock
🐑 Gradual introduction and guidance
🐑 Predictable, organic movement
🐑 Visual contrast is soft and natural
🐑 The dog builds confidence gradually
🐑 Off-lead, with choice and agency
🐑 Often supported by an experienced handler

Walking Near Traffic

🚗 Typically in busy, noisy urban or suburban areas
🚗 Vehicles often move towards the dog
🚗 Narrow pavements with no room to escape
🚗 Loud engines, horns, air brakes, tyre screeches
🚗 Smell of exhaust fumes, oil, hot metal
🚗 Sudden exposure—often first walk after vaccinations
🚗 Erratic, fast, sometimes jerky movement
🚗 Reflections, bright lights, shadows on concrete
🚗 The dog is often overwhelmed and scared from day one
🚗 On a short lead, with tension and no room to move
🚗 Owner may feel panicked, unsure, or reactive themselves

So What Is Happening When a Collie Chases Cars?

When a dog chases traffic, they’re often:

  • Startled by sudden motion
  • Frustrated by their lack of control or escape options
  • Scared of the noise, vibration, or proximity
  • Flooded by accumulated stress from the environment (trigger stacking)
  • Reinforced because the car always goes away—so the dog feels it “worked”

And when you combine high arousal, confinement, and a lack of coping strategies, you get lunging, barking, chasing, and sometimes biting.

That’s not herding. That’s panic with legs.

And when dogs live in environments where they are unable to avoid traffic, then anxiety medication helps to reduce the behaviour - further confirmation that the main emotion behind car chasing is fear.

What Can We Do Instead?

We must start by understanding the emotions that our collies are experiencing, not just focusing on their behaviour. From there, we can support them with:

  • Safe, calm exposure to traffic from a distance at which they feel safe
  • Using distance to maintain calm behaviour, and rewarding this
  • Freedom of movement using a harness and long line
  • Avoiding tight spaces until the dog feels more confident
  • Managing the environment to prevent further overwhelm
  • Ruling out pain or sensory issues, which can make reactivity worse
  • Veterinary support, where needed (some fearful dogs benefit greatly from medication—to help them to cope if avoiding traffic is not possible)

Final Thought

Border Collies are very sensitive, intelligent, impulsive and emotionally complex dogs. Labelling these problem behaviours as "herding" or attempts to "control movement" dismisses their distress and does collies a disservice. It means that we aren't addressing the real emotion behind the behaviour, and helping them to get over their fears and anxieties.  There are rare occasions when collie car chasing is not related to fear, but they are so rare that I've never seen it yet.

If it feels like fear… it probably is.

And they deserve our support—not assumptions.

Training techniques for a sound phobic or sound reactive border collie

border collie scared of noises

border collie scared of noises

Do you have a sound reactive border collie? If so, you are not alone – as a breed, border collies are susceptible to fear of noises, as well as struggling to cope with specific everyday household noises. This tendency is thought to be due to selective breeding and genetics, the breeding environment, learned associations and potentially other factors such as pain. You can read more about this in my blog post “Why is my border collie sound sensitive?”.

The terminology used to describe sound sensitivity is confusing, but to put it simply:

  • Sound sensitivity is when your dog can hear the sound, perceives it to be dangerous, and displays fear behaviours.
  • Sound/noise phobia is a sudden excessive and profound fear, disproportionate to the actual threat. Collies with sound phobias may hide, shake and tremble when they hear the sound, and be so anxious that the sound will be occur, that they may refuse to go on walks.
  • Noise/sound anxiety is when sounds are not present, but the collie is always anxious that they will appear. They are hypervigilant and find it difficult to relax.

It’s important to get help for any sound fears your collie may have because sound sensitivity can easily intensify to sound phobia.

 

Contents:

In this detailed guide, we look at how to help your sound reactive border collie, the research behind the different techniques, and what training methods to choose depending on the noises your dog is sensitive to, and how they react. We cover:

  • Management: how to manage the dog’s environment to prevent the sound fears from worsening, and to help the dog to cope
  • Pain: many sound reactive border collies are in pain
  • Handling – how to behave around your dog when they are experiencing sound fears
  • Equipment – the equipment available and how effective it is
  • “Natural” remedies – over the counter supplements or alternative therapies
  • Prescribed medications – event medication and long term meds
  • Training techniques

The behaviour plan should include management, consideration of how to handle your dog around noise events, reducing exposure to the sounds whenever possible, training techniques, and, depending on the severity of the sound sensitivity, medication.
Below are a list of options.

 

Management:

Managing the dog’s environment is always the first step in any training plan.

Avoid exposure

It’s VERY important that dogs are not subjected to the trigger sounds in daily life while using counter conditioning and desensitisation (see below). For example, these techniques will not be very successful for fear of aircraft if you live on a flight path of a military air base. In these sorts of cases, ad hoc counter conditioning may be the best way forward, alternatively the use of prescription anxiety medication can help.

The whole point of the above training is that the dog ONLY experiences the sounds at low levels. This is why it’s easier to use these techniques for fireworks from mid-January onwards when there is less chance of dogs hearing fireworks at certain times of the year.

Excuse for a holiday

If your dog is fearful of fireworks, consider going away somewhere quiet during peak firework periods.

Safe haven

If dogs have somewhere that they know they can go to get away from things that they find fearful or frustrating, they are better able to cope with their fears and frustrations. So having a safe place to which a dog can retire, to escape from sounds will not only give them much-needed relief from the stress of having to cope with the sounds, it will also give them more confidence and enable them to cope with sounds for longer, knowing that they can always get away if they need.

Evidence has shown that it’s impossible to sound proof a crate adequately, but covering it with layers of bedding such as blankets or duvets, can muffle the sounds. Ensure that the material covers all sides of the crate and overhangs the front, and leave the crate open so that the dog can always get in and out. Ensure that it is in a room that is always accessible for the dog. If your collie is afraid of external noises, such as thunder, gunshots or fireworks, ideally locate the crate so that it backs onto internal walls or is in an internal room.

If you don’t have a crate, any cubby holes that the dog is happy to go in can be used instead. Start to familiarise the area with the dog when there are no loud noises – hide treats in the area when the dog is not looking for them to find later, sit and fuss the dog in the area if the dog enjoys fuss. Locating an Adaptil diffuser near the crate can also help with making the area feel safe.

Predictability and routine

  1. Don’t go outside during sound events
    Ideally, avoid taking your dog outside during major sound events. For instance, I would not take a dog out at all on bonfire night, until after midnight. It’s not worth the risk. If a firework happened to go off in the garden next door, it could terrify your dog and cause a noise phobia.
  2. Place for toileting
    To make things easier during times when there is a high likelihood of loud noise, such as on bonfire night, have a specific place where your dog will to the toilet so that you can take your dog there quickly and get back in the house straight away if needed.
  3. Maximise the chances of sleep
    On days when fireworks are expected, take your dog out for a longer walk than usual in the late afternoon, ensuring that you get home well before dark. Give your dog his dinner so that he is well fed, walked, had all his needs met and is more able to settle.
  4. Disguise the noise/lights
    Once it starts to get dark, have the windows, blinds and curtains closed, and play the TV on loud, or, better still, play music with bass tones. Taiko drums are thought to help, but ensure that the dog is familiar with these before bonfire night by playing at a quiet volume and building up.

Stay with your dog

Your presence at peak sound events is essential – never leave your dog alone. We need to be present to provide comfort and reassurance. Separation anxiety often co-exists with sound sensitivity, so being present can help ensure that your dog does not link your departure to fireworks.

 

Pain

It’s very important to understand that many cases of sound reactive border collies or sound phobia in collies can be caused or exacerbated by pain.  As a rough estimate, 90% of the collies I have seen with sound fears have had some sort of pain or discomfort, most often arthritis or hip/spinal pain.  A study by Lopes Fagundes et. al., in 2018, found that dogs with pain were more likely to be sound sensitive or sound phobic.  They also found that dogs in pain were more likely to generalise from being fearful of one specific sound to other similar sounds.

So always ask your vet to check over your sounds sensitive collie.  And if they can’t find anything obvious, which is often difficult in the 10 minute consultation with collies that can either be very fearful of vets, very excited to see them, or want to please everyone by being stoic and not reacting to anything the vet does, ask your vet if they think your dog could do a pain trial.  The Zero Pain Philosophy website includes a lot of information, including this article: Pain Trials As A Tool.  A pain trial may not completely resolve the issue so they may still react, because it would be very lucky to find the exact pain relief that a dog might need without knowing what that pain might be.  However, any improvement in any aspect of the dog’s behaviour should be reported back to the vet.  Things to look out for as well as a less intense reaction to sound are:

  • Your collie suddenly wanting to play more
  • Suddenly doing zoomies after months of never doing them
  • Being able to more easily jump on to or off things with less hesitation
  • Being more confident on stairs
  • Being happier to go in the car
  • Eating more
  • Settling better overnight and/or during the day
  • Happier to go for walks

Alternatively, if you are lucky enough to be close to the Nupsala Musculoskeletal Clinic in Melton Mowbray or the Renew Centre in Gloucester, they will be able to check your dog for pain and provide a comprehensive report to your vet.

Sometimes finding the right pain relief for your collie is all that is needed to resolve their sound sensitivity so it’s VERY important not to discount this as a possibility.

 

Handling your dog around sounds

No punishment

No punishment during the sound event: It goes without saying that punishment should never be used for any dogs, but especially not a sound reactive border collie. So even if your dog’s reaction to loud noises is to become destructive or toilet in the home, use the following techniques to help your dog, rather than resorting to punishment. This just adds to the dog’s anxiety and fear and will make the problem worse.

No punishment at any time: With sound sensitive collies, it’s also important that we don’t use punishment at any other times for any other behaviours. In order to cope with loud sounds, our dogs need to be able to come to us for safety, especially if it occurs when we are outside the home. If we have a history of punishing our dogs, they will not feel safe around us and are more likely to bolt on walks instead of coming to us to feel safe.

Stay calm but positive

Acknowledge that your dog is afraid – go over, talk to them and look towards the noise, but then behave as though you are not afraid. Show positive emotions – act as though the bangs make you happy. Pair the bangs with something positive such as food or play.
See these videos to see how I did this with Ozzy when he was a puppy to ensure that he didn’t develop a fear of environmental loud sounds.

Stroking and talking

Several studies have found that an owner stroking and/or talking to their dog can reduce behavioural and physiological signs of stress in dogs. However, some collies can be hand shy, so don’t force them to endure stroking if they prefer to move away.

Reducing all types of stress

If a noise sensitive dog is already stressed in their everyday lives, their ability to endure any additional stressors, such as loud, unexpected, or novel sounds, is massively reduced. So it’s important to ensure that all the collie’s needs are met, because a lack of any basic needs causes stress. These needs include:

  • Anything that affects our microbiome
  • Being tired, mentally or physically
  • Pain or disease
  • Boredom or frustration
  • Extremes of temperature
  • Hunger or thirst
  • Threats – real or perceived
  • Major environmental changes
  • Lack of predictability or choice
  • Lack of a safe haven (somewhere the animal can go to feel safe)

 

Equipment

There are a range of products that claim to help with sound sensitivity, especially in relation to expected events, such as fireworks.

Pressure vests

These work on the theory that pressure and weight can be calming. Riemer in 2020 found that pressure vests may have “small but beneficial effects on canine anxiety” and Mathis et. al., 2024 found “weak and limited evidence” that pressure vests can in reduce physiological or behavioural signs of anxiety. but that only if the dog is fully habituated to the vest prior to use in times of anxiety.

Sound blocking devices

Happy hoodies are simply stretchy material tubes that fit over the dog’s head and ears, with the aim of muffling the sound. These could in theory help a little, so long as the dog is habituated to them before use.

Headphones such as the Rex Specs Ear Pro

Rex Specs have carried out tests showing that their ear pro product reduces noise exposure for the dog, but we don’t know how well these tests were conducted. Once again, if the dog is habituated to the products, then they may be worth a try. With a price tag of £85 they are not cheap, but there are other less expensive brands available. The reviews of the Rex Specs Ear Pro suggest that dogs will still react to sounds but their reactions are less.

Habituation: Always get a dog used to these new items well before bonfire night – work through a program of gradually getting the dog used to them, and pairing them with something good. So the item comes out, the dog gets a treat, building up to the item is rested on the dog’s back, he gets a treat, and so on. Once the dog is able to wear the item, pair it with something fun such as treats or play.

 

Training Techniques

The following chart shows which of the following training techniques may be best to use in the contexts on the diagram.  On top of the chart, choose the noise that the collie reacts to is.  With household sounds, we then need to decipher whether the dog is avoidant (trying to hide, trembling, panting) or non-avoidant (barking, lunging, nipping).  Whether or not the trigger noise can be avoided is key in which training techniqes are likely to work. Counter conditioning anfd desensitisation are unlikely to be helpful if we are unable to avoid the trigger sound (eg. aircraft or gunshots).  All the training techniques are numbered below.

Border collie scared of sounds

 

Fig 1: Training techniques selector

Full list of all numbered training techniques on the diagram above – full descriptions below.

  1. Desensitisation
  2. Counter conditioning
  3. Habituation to alternative noises
  4. Relaxation training
  5. Ad hoc counter conditioning
  6. Prepulse inhibition
  7. Stationing
  8. Mat training
  9. Pattern games
  10. Free work
  11. Rucksack time
  12. Scentwork

 

1. Desensitisation

Desensitisation is the gradual exposure to sounds at a level at which the dog feels safe.

  • Start with a good quality sound recording (see below) or have the dog a good distance away from the sound, so that it is barely audible. Alternatively, record the sound and replay starting at very low volumes.
  • Have the dog engaged in a relaxing activity, such as settled and relaxed in his bed, or licking a lickimat or kong.
  • Carry out the training when you are not expecting any deliveries, or any other noises of which the dog might be fearful. Have music, the tv or white noise playing in the background to mask other sounds.
  • Start the recording at the lowest possible volume (you may not be able to hear it) or create the noise in a distant location and watch the dog carefully.
  • Positive Sign: your dog’s ears twitch towards the sound but he then carries on with what he was doing, this indicates he is aware of the noise but not stressed by it. Continue at this volume.
  • Warning Sign: If your dog keeps his ears flat back while the sound is playing, this is a sign of anxiety, and the volume is too high. Turn it off and start again at a lower volume or further away.
  • Keep the session short – 5-10 minutes – no more than twice a day.
  • Keep the volume at the same level for three days before attempting to increase it, ensuring your dog is constantly relaxed at that level.
  • Over time (usually weeks or months) the volume is gradually increased to lifelike levels, always ensuring that the dog appears to be relaxed and not fearful.

Desensitisation to sounds is most successful when used alongside counter conditioning (Riemer, 2020).

 

2. Counterconditioning

Counter conditioning is when we try to change the dog’s association with a trigger (in this case a sound) from a negative association to a positive association. Instead of feeling scared, frustrated or anxious when they hear the trigger, we want the dog to feel anticipation for something good.

Start training when the dog is already relaxed, and as with desensitisation, start with the volume at a level at which the dog is aware but not fearful. Play the sound for short periods (3 to 10 seconds) and pair the sound to something fun, most often food, as this helps to keep the dog calm, but play can be used as well. The noise should be a predictor of the food, so play the noise first, then give the dog high value food. Take a break between playing the noise, and vary the duration of the sound, presenting the sound in an irregular pattern. 2 to 3 presentations of the sound per day is enough.

With collies that are sensitive to sounds such as Sellotape, chopping vegetables or sneezing, creating the sounds in real life but at a lower volume, with slower movements, can help, or having the dog in a distant room while a helper makes the noises is a good idea.  If the dog is fearful of multiple noises, such as the whiz, bang, pop of fireworks, start with the noise that the dog is least fearful of.  Once you start to see a positive response from the dog when he hears the sound, we can increase the volume very slightly.

To ensure that the dog doesn’t just start to think that they are safe when they hear the noise in one location only, vary where you do the training – use different rooms, different locations of the speakers, different times of day, and different types of reward.

 

Using recordings a for desensitisation or counter conditioning

Sound recordings can work really well for some dogs, but others don’t respond to recorded sounds the same as they do in real life. Ideally use a good speaker rather than a phone or laptop speaker. Start the noise without attracting attention.

Locate the speakers in different areas of the room – particularly near windows to mimic where the scary sounds come from. Don’t try to use older YouTube videos (mp3) – these will have important frequencies missing.

Most importantly, test the set up when the dog is not present. Make sure that it sounds realistic and that the volume is very low – you may not be able to hear it. Starting at the lowest volume is best.

There are some great recordings available:

  • Dogs Trust for fireworks, gunshots and thunder: https://www.dogstrust.org.uk/dog-advice/understanding-your-dog/sound-therapy-for-pets
  • BBC sound effects: https://sound-effects.bbcrewind.co.uk/search
  • Pixabay: https://pixabay.com/sound-effects/search/aircraft/

The Dogs Trust has some fantastic reasources and detailed guides to helping sound phobic dogs.

 

3. Habituating to alternative noises

Habituating dogs to alternative loud or sudden sound can be very helpful in decreasing your dog’s tolerance to unfamiliar noises. This tends to work really well if the dog causes the sounds themselves.
The principles are the same – start with the noises at a lower level, then gradually increase.

  • Noisy activities
    Hiding treats in boxes of rustling paper, or in a ball pool.
    The knock it over game – a type of free work set up with plastic bottles, pan lids, other “noisy” items. Set the items out, scatter treats over everything, and allow your dog to browse the items, eating the treats. Start the dog interacting with these on a soft carpet or on grass, then gradually move to surfaces that will be louder such as laminate flooring and then finally concrete or stone tiles. Dogs can be rewarded for knocking the items over.
    This video shows me carrying out this training with puppy Ozzy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ERiUfDaB3XY
  • Electronic devices
    Dog doorbells with volume options, or dog communication buttons that allow you to record sounds (you can record at a low volume/distance to start with, then replace with a louder sound etc).
  • Mixing the two
    Electronic devices can be used as part of noisy activities to create a “sound free work” set up, where food is scattered on and around household objects with the loud items added in. In the back ground we can also create some novel loud items as well, while the dog is engaged in sniffing the items.
    Use these items in different locations, at different times of the day and week, and on different surfaces, to teach your dog that sounds can always equal fun, whatever the time of day or whatever the location.

Obviously, stick to the desensitisation and counterconditioning principles noted above- start at a level at which the dog feels safe and build up slowly. If the dog is startled or fearful, this training will not work and could make them worse.

 

4. Relaxation training

This training involves pairing true relaxation with a cue, sometimes a word cue, specific music or scent cues are often used.

  • Relaxation 30: Pair all natural relaxation with treat – take 30 pieces of your dog’s kibble each day, or 30 small treats, and aim to use them all. Every time you see your dog relaxing, place a piece of kibble between his or her paws. Don’t say anything, just place the kibble and walk away. If they are asleep they will find it when they wake up.
  • Introduce a cue: When the dog naturally starts to drift off to sleep, introduce the smell, cue or music, (Or all three). Oils such as lavender, valerian or ylang ylang are naturally calming so are a good choice.
  • Massaging: If you collie enjoys long slow strokes or massages and they start to drift off to sleep while you are doing this, then you can do this and apply a tiny amount of lavender oil to the back of your hand so that the dog starts to drift off smelling lavender. Don’t do this with collies that dislike handling (and many don’t find it pleasant).
  • Once your dog is reliably relaxing on cue, you can start to use this during noise events to help them to be less anxious and more relaxed.

 

5. Ad hoc counterconditioning

Sometimes exposure at full volume can’t be avoided. This can happen when dogs are fearful of aircraft or gunshots and live in areas where farmers use bird scarers. In these situations, ad hoc counterconditioning can be very effective.

Sound = Something Fun
The sound becomes the predictor of something fun

A study by Riemer 2020 found that ad hoc counterconditioning was the most successful way to help sound sensitive dogs.

Noise fears in border collies - most effective training techniques

Fig 2: Taken from: Riemer, S. (2020). Effectiveness of treatments for firework fears in dogs. Journal of Veterinary Behavior. doi:10.1016/j.jveb.2020.04.005

We are aiming to change the dog’s association to the sound from a fearful response to a positive response. We want the dog to learn that the sound is the predictor of something REALLY wonderful. Whenever a scary noise appears in the environment, immediately pair it with something good, such as play or food.

These videos show this in action:

Pairing gunshots with treats
Pairing thunder with something fun

Evidence suggests that using REALLY amazing food in the first few instances of this training, it will have a better effect in the long run (2024 webinar by Zazie Todd). So a good chunk of steak, chicken, any human food that is safe for dogs to eat, is a good choice. Surprise them with something amazing.

Dogs may be too fearful to eat straight away, but still present the food, as it will help to condition them that sounds mean good things in the long run. However, if your dog is too fearful to eat food, then anxiolytic medication may be required to enable them to be relaxed enough to be able to eat.

For longer term fears such as loud firework bouts on bonfire night, the following can be helpful:

  • Keep dogs busy with lickimats, snuffle mats
  • Ask for easy tricks that the dog enjoys doing
  • Keep feeding/playing
  • Games to obtain treats, such as treat dispensing toys, free work or forage boxes.
  • Anything the dog enjoys that makes noise is an excellent way of drowning out the firework sound outside.

It can also be helpful to condition words that mean different types of treat delivery and make a game out of it – for example:

  • Get it – treat is rolled across the floor
  • Catch – treat is thrown for dog to catch
  • Take it – treat is delivered to dog’s mouth
  • Scatter – lots of treats are scattered on the floor
  • Party – lots of VERY high value treats are scattered on the floor

Having a bag that contains lots of different items that the dog REALLY likes is another way of pairing loud sounds with good things. For example, using a rucksack on walks – the noise appears, we give the cue for rucksack, open the rucksack and get out some great things – such as tubes of liver paste for the dog to lick, novel treats for them to taste, the little tins of tasty substances that dogs can lick, chews etc. Make a big deal about getting the rucksack out, saying “ooh what have we got here – wow look at this” etc. Sound REALLY interested in it and it will help your dog to feel interested.

It’s important during ad hoc counterconditioning that we remain calm but upbeat to display to the dog that we are not remotely fearful and that they have nothing to worry about.

 

6. Prepulse inhibition

It has been suggested (Lindsay, 2013: Barber et. al., 2020) that prepulse inhibition, a neurological phenomenon that occurs when a weak stimulus reduces the response to a strong stimulus that follows, could potentially be used to reduce a dog’s startle reflex, and help dogs with noise phobias. Given that startle reflexes, that horrible feeling we get when something makes us jump, can often cause or contribute to noise fears, then this could be a useful training approach, particularly with dogs that are sensitive to predictable household noises. Valsamis & Schmid, 2011, demonstrated that startle responses in mice were reduced when loud sounds were preceded by quieter sounds, particularly when the time intervals between the loud sounds were varied.

The process has not yet been demonstrated in dogs, but it would ideally need to be as follows:

  • Low intensity sound – trigger sound – food.
  • This would need to be repeated in a varied schedule for a certain amount of times on a daily basis.
  • As always, the dog must be monitored to ensure that they are not experiencing stress and they should be able to move away if they choose to.

Over time, the dog’s startle response could be measured by video recording the response before the training and comparing it to videos of the dog after training.

 

7. Stationing

Stationing works well with collies if it is trained in a fun, lively way because collies love movement, especially fast movement. So when the trigger sound is heard, we train the collie to run to a station at which they get either treats or a game. This replaces their undirected urge to bark, lunge, pace or spin – it’s telling the dog what we DO want them to do rather than what NOT to do.

The best way for this to work is:

  • Decide on where we want the dog to station – ideally not the dog’s bed because we want the dog to relax in their bed. The station should have clear boundaries – a mat or platform is ideal.
  • Keep a pot of the dog’s favourite treats near the station or, if your dog prefers toys, a fun toy, such as a tug toy
  • Play the sound or make the sound, or if the sound occurs out of your control
  • Give the dog the cue for station, and immediately run with the dog to its station
  • As soon as you get there, feed him several treats or play with the tug toy
  • Give the dog a release cue to let them know that they can leave the station

 

8. Mat training

This could be used as a calmer alternative to stationing, and is best used in the following conditions:

  • You can control the noise intensity
  • You are working with a collie that spins, barks and lunges at household noises

Work carefully through a mat training guide – such as Teach settle on a mat
Before attempting to use mat training for sound sensitive collies, ensure that your collie is used to settling on a mat, and can remain on the mat for longer durations, with varying distractions.

  • Settle your collie on their mat
  • Follow the guidance for desensitisation above.
  • The mat helps by being an anchor for you collie, keeping them in one place that is conditioned to be positive and rewarding.

 

9. Pattern games

Collies are masters of pattern games – they love predictability and routine. Being able to focus on a pattern that they have learnt and practised in a safe, positive environment can help collies to feel safe in a stimulating environment.

Look at That

Look At That is a great pattern game for dealing with collies that react to sounds where the source of the sound can be located by the dog, so it usually works best with household sounds.

To play, your dog needs to understand what a marker word is. A marker is a word that tells the dog that exactly what they were doing when you said the word was the right thing to do. You can read more about marker words here.

Ideally start with the noise at a reduced intensity, by either:
Recording the sound and replaying at a low volume
Moving into a distant room from the noise, and shutting doors
Creating the trigger noise with reduced vigour, speed or volume, eg. opening the cutlery drawer slowly and very lightly touching the cutlery with a dog that reacts to cutlery moving.

How to teach Look At That:

Stage 1

  • Start by using a novel object for your dog to look towards
  • Have your treats ready to hand
  • Bring the object out from behind your back
  • As soon as your dog glances at it, say your marker word and put the item behind your back again
  • Then immediately give them a treat
  • Repeat ten times in a session, then stop.

Stage 2
When they are regularly looking at the item and expecting a treat, place the item next to you and, as before, whenever the dog looks at the item, say your marker word and then reward. Repeat ten times in a session.

Stage 3

  • Have the treats ready to hand.
  • As the noise starts, every time your dog looks towards the trigger sound, immediately say your marker word.
  • The dog should turn back towards you when they hear your marker word.
  • Give your dog a treat straight away.
  • If they don’t look back towards you, try decreasing the sound intensity, increasing the treat value or ensuring that your dog knows what a marker word is.
  • Practise without your dog to start with so that it becomes natural.

This video shows Ozzy playing the Look At That game because of barking dogs behind him:

The pattern is:

  • Dog looks at trigger – marker word – treat
  • Dog looks at trigger – marker word – treat

Keep going until the sound has finished.

 

Up Down and Ping pong

These are both great games for keeping a collie that is worried or overwhelmed by sounds focused on you and engaged in a game rather than barking, lunging or nipping.  Have a helper who can play or create the sound at a lower intensity than unusual, either by recording it, using distance or by creating the trigger noise with reduced vigour, speed or volume.  Just before the sound starts, start playing the game, continue through the sound, and stop shortly after it ends.

These videos show me practising these games.  In both games, the collie looking up at me is rewarded with a treat.

Up Down

Ping Pong

 

10. Free work

Free Work is a low-pressure, enrichment-based training approach that allows dogs to engage in different enrichment options at their own pace.

Dog that are sound phobic may struggle when introducing trigger sounds , but it could work well with collies that are sensitive to household sounds introduced at a low intensity while they are engaged in free work. This can merge in with the knock it over game mentioned above.  See this video for a great description of the benefits and requirements of free work.

Setting up free work:

Choose a quiet, safe space with which the dog is familiar, the lounge or garden are good options.

Provide a Variety of Surfaces & Objects

  • Use different textures: mats, towels, cardboard, rubber, wooden planks.
  • Lickimats and snuffle mats are great additions if you have them.
  • Include novel but safe objects: boxes, tunnels, wobble cushions, cones.
  • Scatter treats of different sizes, shapes, and textures (soft, crunchy, chewy).
  • Always include a water bowl.

Let the Dog Explore at Their Own Pace

  • Avoid giving cues or directing behaviour – let them choose where to go.
  • Observe how they interact – do they avoid certain surfaces or struggle with balance?
  • Some dogs may hesitate at first – allow them time to adjust.
  • 5-15 minutes is ideal, depending on the dog’s comfort level.
  • End on a positive note, allowing the dog to leave when ready.

 

11. Rucksack time

This is based around Steve Mann’s “rucksack walk” time. It involves the dog exploring wonderful and amazing treats, scents and textures from a “rucksack” (or bag) , and can either be carried out in the home, or on walks where sounds might be heard.

It can be helpful with dogs that are fearful of loud environmental sounds, and could tempt a dog to enjoy looking through the rucksack with the caregiver despite the sounds outside. Alternatively, it could be useful for dogs that react in any way to household sounds.

Fill a bag with

  • Interesting items – e.g., leaves, grass, sticks, feathers, fabrics, and objects from safe outdoor areas
  • Different types of treats that the dog rarely has. Include soft treats, crunchy treat, fish treats, insect treats etc.
  • Different sorts of chews that don’t take long to eat, such as rabbit ears, fish skins etc.
  • Include tubes of liver paste, or Primula cheese, or the little tins that dogs can lick.

How to use a rucksack

  1. As the sounds start, or after they have started, begin to take things out of the bag one item at a time, letting the dog sniff, lick or eat everything at their own pace, sniffing and exploring without pressure.
  2. Make a big deal about it with words such “oh look – what’s this? Wow – look at this!” If we communicate that they are really interesting, by looking at the item first, showing it to the dog, and generally sharing interest in each item.
  3. Observe the dog’s reactions – note what they enjoy or avoid.

Benefits of Rucksack Time:

  • Mental stimulation and sniffing enrichment
  • Reduces stress and frustration in reactive or anxious dogs
  • Strengthens bonding between dog and owner

12. Scentwork

Scentwork can be extremely helpful for dogs that are sound sensitive – but how to carry out scent training as a rehabilitation tool for sound sensitive dogs is a skill that scent trainers will be better placed to determine the exact set up of the training and how it would be used.

The same underlying principles apply in that the dog must feel safe while experiencing sounds, and with some collies, scent works could enable them to do this. But the scent work would need to be trained in a safe environment first, be very highly motivated to engage in the activity, and be very well practised. This will keep the dog in an optimistic frame of mind as they search, enabling them to cope with the introduction of sounds.  The College of Scent Dogs is a great place to start, and have written a fantastic book about scent training: .

 

Conclusion

Border collies are susceptible to sound sensitivity and noise phobia for many reasons, so it’s important that we understand how all the available management, handling, equipment and training techniques that are available to help them.  This guide has gone through some of these techniques in detail, and looked through the literature to find out which are most likely to be helpful for border collies.  For any more detail or information, or for help with your collie, please get in touch.

 

References

Barber, A.L., Wilkinson, A., Ratcliffe, V.F., Guo, K. and Mills, D.S., 2020. A Comparison of Hearing and Auditory Functioning Between Dogs and Humans. Comparative Cognition & Behavior Reviews, 15.

Lindsay, S.R. ed., 2013. Handbook of applied dog behavior and training, procedures and protocols (Vol. 3). John Wiley & Sons.

 

Lopes Fagundes, A.L., Hewison, L., McPeake, K.J., Zulch, H. and Mills, D.S. (2018) Noise Sensitivities in Dogs: An Exploration of Signs in Dogs with and without Musculoskeletal Pain Using Qualitative Content Analysis. Frontiers in Veterinary Science, 5.

Mathis, S., Schoolfield, S., Gross, P., Gruen, M. and Dorman, D.C. (2024) A Systematic Review of the Efficacy of Compression Wraps as an Anxiolytic in Domesticated Dogs.

Riemer, S. (2020). Effectiveness of treatments for firework fears in dogs. Journal of veterinary behavior, 37, 61-70.

Valsamis B, Schmid S. Habituation and prepulse inhibition of acoustic startle in rodents. J Vis Exp. 2011 Sep 1;(55):e3446. doi: 10.3791/3446. PMID: 21912367; PMCID: PMC3217252.